COUNTERTOP

So we've been hard at work for months cleaning up and making repairs to our rental house. We're slow because we both have full time jobs and, well, life!  Lowe's installed new vinyl windows, front door and screen, and new carpeting. I cleaned, cleaned, cleaned.... then painted, prepped floor for carpeting and replaced a closet. Husband worked on the garage, plumbing, had the plumber come out,  pulled the sink out,  and grew a pumpkin patch.

This weekend we started on the countertop. Took awhile to decide what to do with it, and after missing out on a sweet deal on pre-fab, we resorted to re-laminating the old top. Also, it seemed, this was going to be easier. Watching YouTube can make you think you can do just about anything!    Here we go!


The sink has been removed. Now you can see why we had to do something. Seam has lifted, chunk missing from the facing piece, nails holding the facing on:

And in this photo you can see the burn mark on the backsplash:

I removed the back splash, hesitantly at first, this being the FIRST time I had ever done this! I used the 5-in-1 tool to break the paint then just pried the backsplash from the wall. Most of it was just glued, however there were some nails hidden along the bottom edge that just pulled right out.

Then I pried up the top, searing along the edge to break it free. Once the edges were free, this first section lifted up fairly easy using the tool to lift. The facing was easy as it was already loose in spots. Nails were removed.

This next section took a bit more work. I found a 1" by 2" piece of scrap wood and used it as a pry bar to reach further under the old laminate. I hammered on the pry bar to get more force under the sheet. I worked my way around the edges, working closer to the wall until the whole thing popped loose. It loosened the area into the corner and around the sink opening. Using this technique, made this increasingly difficult job, manageable.

Then I went to the other side of the sink. Oh, boy!  This side was difficult. As I wrote this, I started thinking about why was it so hard. Then I remembered the burn mark. And the range is nearby.  It's quite possible the hotter temperatures caused the adhesive to bond much better.

In attempting to get this section off, the wooden pry bar broke in half. Ooops. This section broke up into many pieces. If I would have started with this section, I would have regretted starting this project, however, it eventually came off. And the facing piece, once again, came off easily with the tool!

Aaaah, now it's ready to be sanded down to remove the glue (hopefully), even it out, and repair the small amount of water damage where the seam was lifted.  There is varying degrees of damage to the wall where the backsplash was but it will be covered with a new one.

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I cut the laminate, first using tin snips - that did NOT work. Don't use tin snips! But I did get a rough shape cut out of it. The laminate kept splitting and chipping. Then I attempted a jigsaw and the blade broke with the first cut!  So then I tried the router with a 3/8" flush trim bit with a bearing to make the rest of the cuts. It worked really well, for the most part. No splitting or chipping. A table saw would have been great but didn't have one of those.

After consulting multiple YouTube videos and online articles, I finally found a way to get through this project.


Here is a pretty good video that helped me a lot!     DIY Laminate Countertops by Russ Richards


I also found a video that showed me how to use a router, change the bit, and remove the handles! This was extremely helpful, since I had never used one before!


One sheet of laminate, purchased off the shelf at Lowe's, was all we needed to complete this project even with the oooopsies!

Here are some of the tools I used: 

Router, contact cement, roller, paper towels, rags, Goof Off, paint roller, sand block. Fan for air circulation and vacuum with attachments. The gas was turned off to the gas furnace. Didn't need that kind of excitement!

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The Sticks

The instructions said to use dowels. Then I saw another video using slats from a set of blinds. So instead of buying dowels I went looking for my old set of blinds. I didn't find the blinds, however, I did find two alternatives:  the sticks pictured above and a bunch of wands from old blinds!  I decided to use the sticks which were leftover roasting sticks from camping!  They were longer, and just perfect!

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I decided not to sand, after finding out the heat from sanding would make the old adhesive get sticky. So I just used a scraper to even out the higher spots, then vacuumed all the loose particles. For the adhesive, I used quick drying Contact Cement. It had a gel thickness, which needed stirring. A wooden paint stir stick worked well.  I used a small fine nap roller to apply the adhesive. I did the facing pieces first, rolling the adhesive onto the counter facing edge, then on the laminate strips. Let dry for about 20 minutes. Then positioned the pieces in place by aligning with the bottom edge. Trimmed away the overhang using the router and flush trim bit.

Be sure to clean up any adhesive that drips where it shouldn't, right away. Easier to do it while it's wet then after it dries.It damages the paint on the cabinets. So you might want to protect them with plastic or paper before you start.

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Apply adhesive to the back side of the new laminate using the small paint roller. Protect the surface below the laminate with plastic sheeting or other disposable item. 

Generously apply adhesive to the counter top. Work from the corners and walls towards the front. I paid special attention around the sink and along the edges to ensure they were covered well with adhesive. Let dry for about a half hour.

After it dries, place wooden sticks directly on top of the countertop. It wasn't sticky at all!   Even the new laminate was not sticky! Place the new laminate sheet on top of the sticks on top of the counter. By placing the laminate on the sticks, allowed me to shift the laminate into proper position before sticking it to the countertop. Then take out one stick at a time starting from one corner and working your way out to each end. As you take the sticks out, apply pressure on the laminate so that it makes contact. Working slowly, making sure there are no air bubbles. Then use a laminate roller to apply even steady pressure across the entire top and thoroughly going over the outer edges and around the sink area.

I was pretty amazed to see how the two dry adhesive surfaces stuck to each other but not to the sticks or my fingers!

Then use the router to trim the edges.

At this point, I still needed to cut the sink hole. I had placed some blue tape on the wall so that I would have a general idea of where the edges were. I also placed tape on the laminate, before applying the adhesive, about where the cutout should be. (I didn't apply adhesive to the cutout area.) With the router, make a hole in the center of the cutout then work in a circular pattern until reaching the edge and then follow the edge around to make the cutout. It worked great!

The laminate is now stuck to the countertop!  

I had a few oooopsies along the way......                                              

I must not have kept the router in the right position. When I noticed what was happening, I applied less pressure on the counter side of the router. It worked much better. Using the handles helps direct and apply even pressure, however it is difficult to see the edge. Also, the handles can be removed when you get close to a wall. You could probably do the whole thing without the handles. Maybe next time I'll try that. I'm going to live with the damage, for now.

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Ok, so I couldn't "live" with it!

Peeled away the damaged facing pieces.                         Oooopsie, oweee, be careful!

  Using two tools to pry it away.                                      Measuring & cutting the small pieces.

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Aaaaaahhhhh! This is much better. The edges are a little uneven and one very small chip on the corner edge but I can live with it!  And notice that the sink is in!

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I had one package of wainscoting on hand so that's what I used for the backsplash. There was just enough to do this project! Did have to purchase the trim pieces.

Measured and cut the wainscoting and trim pieces. Then used TileSetting Mat to adhere the wainscoting and trim pieces. I didn't use any nails but it probably wouldn't hurt to use a few.

Centered the first piece of wainscoting with the sink. Had to cut a small piece to fit into the corner. Mitered the corner for the trim piece. The foot didn't quite fit as expected. With some paint, it won't be too noticeable, hopefully!

Used Polyseamseal Tub & Tile Adhesive & Caulk to secure the foot trim and fill the cracks

Primed & painted with high gloss white. And it is DONE!

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BEFORE & AFTER

Checkerboard Game Table

My daughter replaced her dining table and I grabbed the old set before it hit the dumpster. No dumpster diving here!

The grandkids wore the poor table out. So I decided to refinish it. While checking Pinterest and other sites about how to go about it, I came across a few re-purposed game tables. I thought how perfect!

It turned out to be more difficult than I thought it would be but I was determined.

My projects usually go like that!

In the Beginning

 So here's the table when I first started sanding it down.

After sanding, I stained it with several coats to get the color I wanted.

This color is Natural, which was the closest to the color of the bench.

These are some items I used to help mark the square on the table. 

I eventually ditched the yardstick and switched to my quilting rulers.

Each individual square is 2" x 2". The outer square needs to be at least 16" x 16".

I added a 1/4 inch border so that it measured 16.5" x 16.5"

That gave me a little room for imperfection!

The square is taped off and the rest of the table is protected with newspaper.

I started using masking tape because that's what I had on hand.

Blue painter's tape may have prevented the slight mark after pulling the tape.

Frog tape is not recommended for use with spray paint.

I used the spray paint recommended by the helpful hardware man.

This is flat black. I planned to lacquer so no need for gloss.

I followed the directions on the can.

Spraying two coats.

Let dry for a week.

I forgot to take a pic of the first set of blue tape but you get the idea.

Tape off the grid for the first set of red squares.

I couldn't find 2" blue tape so I used two strips for each row. 

Measure twice, paint once!

Blue tape doesn't stick like masking tape, which is a very good thing for this project!

I made sure to place a red square in the bottom right corner on both the players' sides.

The checkerboard has 64 squares, 32 are red & 32 are black.

Four of each color in every row - eight squares in each row - eight rows.

Sounds silly to explain that but I did come across a table that had an extra row!

There was lots of great suggestions for the project but

just glad I noticed before I taped & painted!

Sprayed with red gloss spray paint. 

I know, I know, I should have got the flat!

The helpful hardware man got me so confused and neither he or I noticed!

And by the way it's not hard to get me confused! I over-analyze things!

I let it dry according to the directions on the can.

 Wait a half hour then peel off the tape.

I wanted it to dry long enough to hold it's shape but

 not too long that the red would peel off with the tape.

Let dry a few days.

Cover the red squares with blue tape.

Then place blue tape in the opposite direction to

 form the other squares that will be painted red.

Spray with red paint.

Let dry about a half hour.

Remove all the blue tape.

This part is so EXCITING!

Look at that - it actually looks like a checkerboard! Wow! 

  Remove the rest of the tape & paper.

Let dry for 5 days.

Lightly sand to get off any tape residue and rough up the gloss paint.

Clean all dust off.

 I gave it three coats of lacquer. That's what I got out of one spray can.

I still want to add more lacquer but will wait for warmer, dryer days!

Be sure to follow the directions on the can!

Ventilation is a good thing - outside is best!

 Voila! The finished table!

 Now to find some checkers and a worthy opponent!

Seatbelt Pillow

So Simple Seatbelt Pillows

So we're about to take a long trip with three little ones. It always bothers me to see their little heads kinked to one side after they fall asleep. So I thought about a pillow but how to keep it from dropping to the floor.

I saw some ideas on the internet and really needed a quick way to do this. So here's what I came up with:

I purchased the pillow & ribbon from Walmart.

















Cut the tags off from the pillow.
Cut the ribbon into two 24 inch lengths for each pillow.
Hand sew the ribbon about six inches from each end.
To avoid scratching the little ones, I attached the ribbon to the same seam that the tags were cut off from.
I used a lighter to seal the cut ends of the ribbon.


Voila!

















In the Car

Tie the ribbon around the shoulder belt in a bow. It will easily slide up and down.I may have to tie knots instead of bows!

















It took about a half hour to make three pillows!

I'll let you know how this works out after we return from our trip!

The pillows didn't work out as planned but the kids still used them just not tied to the seatbelt.

The pillows weren't used again until about six months later. Now they have them tied to the headrest and use them all the time! Go figure!

Just the way they like it!